Brunch Series, Recipe #3: Crispy Home fries

When I am back in my home state of Rhode Island — a biannual occurrence, taking place in August and then again in December — I have certain places that I must visit, ones that I periodically pine for when in Rome. These include, but are not limited to: PVdonuts, for a selection of whatever creative, artfully done doughnuts their ever-changing menu offers; Crumbl, for an oversized, served-warm cookie; and breakfast at T’s Restaurant, in my own little hometown of East Greenwich.

I’ve learned over the years that have that no matter the day of the week or the time of day, T’s is always busy and bustling (there’s usually a short, manageable wait before being seated). And with good reason: it serves an array of breakfast classics, everything from oversized waffles to stacks of pancakes to slabs of French toast, generous breakfast sandwiches, and perfectly done eggs benedict, among other things. You’ll find American style coffee served with cream and sugar (refills poured by your waitress, directly from the coffee pot,) plus little packets of jam and butter on the table for your toast or bagel. For an American living in Italy — a country that considers a cornetto or a handful of cookies to be a suitable breakfast — it is pure paradise. With the rare exception to the rule, my order at T’s is generally the following: a ham and cheddar omelet, a buttered English muffin, and, most excitingly of all: a side order of home fries. Swoon.

First things first: it would seem that home fries are not exactly well-known outside of the U.S. Breakfast/brunch related discussions with non-American friends (a common topic of conversation, if you’re me) have led to some head scratching where home fries are concerned. If you’re not familiar, home fries are essentialy breakfast potatoes, crisp, slightly spiced, and, like any good potato, superb with a sprinkle of salt. It may seem odd to eat potatoes as part of the first meal of the day, but, let’s be honest: is there ever a bad time of the day to eat a potato, whether mashed, fried, baked, or roasted!? I think not.

So! These home fries are parboiled until knife-tender, and then pan-fried in butter and oil until crisp and deep golden. There’s a little onion for sweetness, and they’re spiced up with lots of garlic powder and paprika, in the style of T’s. They are savory and moreish and, if we’re being honest, divine with a little ketchup on the side for dipping (there, I said it!) They are fabulous served alongside eggs and toast, but I also do love to eat them topped with a fried, poached, or 7-minute egg breakfast hash-style. They are also wonderful when made with sweet potatoes in place of the white ones — a little more sophisticated than what you’d find at T’s, but delicious nonetheless. They’ve become a feature at the brunches I organize here in Rome, and I’m pleased to report I no longer have to wait until my annual visits home to get my T-home fries-fix.

I’ll be back next week with the final recipe in the Brunch series — still deciding between some variation on waffles or French toast, but doesn’t everyone also love a breakfast bun or coffee cake?! (Decisions, decisions). Stay tuned my fellow brunchers.

A couple of notes: If you’re brunching with a bigger group, feel free to double the quantities here. Finally, I had some parlsey left over form these uova in purgatorio, and sprinkled it on top to make the dish more photogenic — while quite tasty, classic home fries don’t usually have a garnish, just fyi. You can up the quantity of garlic powder and paprika, if you’d like. Finally, I have also made these home fries in the oven; mix the onions, potatoes, oil, and spices together in a bowl, and roast on a sheet pan at 350 degrees F (170 degrees C) for 45-60 minutes, or until golden brown and cooked throughout. As mentioned above, sweet potatoes also work really nicely here.

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CRISPY HOME FRIES

Serves 4. Recipe from The Kitchn.

Ingredients:
1 1/2 pounds (680 grams) Russet potatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 medium onion, peeled and diced
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
Salt and pepper

Directions:
1. Wash and scrub the potatoes well, then cut into half-inch cubes. Add the cubed potatoes to a large saucepan and cover with cold water to about one inch above the potatoes. Add a pinch of salt.

2. With the saucepan uncovered, bring the water to a boil, then cook for an additional minute or two to parboil the potatoes.

3. While the water comes to a boil, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet, over medium heat. When hot, add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes.

4. To test the potatoes for doneness, stick the tip of a paring knife into a few of the potato cubes. The flesh should feel slightly firm, but softer and more tender than before cooking. The potatoes should not feel mushy. Drain the potatoes in a colander, shake off any excess water, and cool for about 5 minutes.

5. Heat the remaining olive oil and butter in a wide cast iron pan or large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the potatoes, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat with the oil. Spread the potatoes in a single layer across the bottom of the pan, working in batches if necessary. Cook the potatoes, without stirring, for 8 to 10 minutes, so the bottoms become nicely browned and crispy.

6. Add cooked onions, garlic powder, and paprika to the skillet and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat and serve immediately.