Risotto al pomodoro e mozzarella

We’re over half way into September, a month that marks the end of the summer (hands down the Best Time Season of them All). I’m still in denial, the warm weather slightly negating the fact that the days are shorter, work has picked up again, and the school year has resumed for many (I’ve not been a student for years, but I still feel a hint of back-to-school melancholy this time of year — anyone else?) In any case, this seasonal transition plays out annually in my kitchen, where I cook compromise sort of dishes like this risotto al pomodoro e mozzarella: a dish that abounds with (summer) flavors like basil and tomato while still being undeniably cozy (autumn) in that risotto sort of way. It’s a meet-you-halfway, fifty-fifty type deal, one that tricks your brain into thinking that summer is still in full-force while also preparing you for the chilly, pumpkin-spice scented reality: Fall is around the corner.

(As is my quinquennial — yes, that is a word — UN Spanish test that I’m not so prepared for, so I’ll keep this post brief.)

Today’s recipe doesn’t have the most glamorous of origin stories: my workplace cafeteria offers a risotto al pomodoro, a straightforward kind of primo that could be tasty, but usually lacks salt, is begging for cheese, and is on the drier side. Recognizing its potential, I decided to give it a make-over in my own kitchen, Eliza Doolittle style, and ended up with not only a tasty new risotto to add to my repertoire, but a perfect Summer-Fall dinner to boot.

Think of this as a risotto with a little color in its cheeks: the tomatoes make for a rosy, blushy rice, a nice change of pace from the usually paled hued risotto. Pretty color aside, our pomodori give the risotto a saucy richness and depth of flavor; the fact that they’re canned sidesteps the fact that tomato season is behind us (shhh!) True to form, they play splendidly with the fresh basil, which adds a pop of color in its own right. A hefty pour of white wine makes the risotto sing, however subtley. Best of all: the mozzarella melts and goes pleasantly stringy and stretchy from plate to fork— in Italian there’s an adjective that describes this, filante —tip-toeing off the path of the usual Parmesan-dusted risotto. I found it to be reminiscent of the interior of a Roman supplì al telefono, sans the fried shell (more fun Italian language facts: the telefono in this case refers to the fact that the cheese resembles telephone lines as it stretches and pulls). Whether you’re itching to put on your sweaters and scarves, or are currently covering your ears and closing your eyes and singing a loud ridiculous song to block out the signs that summer is over: I think we can all set our differences aside and agree on this risotto.

A couple of notes: I have used both mozzarella di bufala here or regular cows milk mozzarella here with good results (just don’t use the pre-grated stuff from the bag, I beg you). You can also leave out the mozzarella and use a good dose of Parmesan in its place. If you’re in Italy, the tomatoes you’re looking for here are passata. If you can’t find crushed tomatoes that are the smoother variety in your supermarket, I would imagine you can use whole canned tomatoes and puree them to make them smooth. As I write this post, I wonder if it would make more sense to stir the tomatoes into the broth and add them all together instead of first tomatoes, then broth; if you try this, let me know (I will probably also try this when I make this dish next).

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RISOTTO AL POMODORO E MOZZARELLA

Serves 4.

Ingredients:
Olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped
1 1/2 cups (270 grams) arborio rice
1 cup (240mL) white wine
1 1/2 cups (360mL) crushed tomatoes
5 cups (a little over 1 liter) vegetable or chicken broth
4 ounces (112 grams) mozzarella torn into pieces, see notes
A handful of basil leaves, torn into small pieces
Salt and pepper

Directions:
1.) Place the chicken or vegetable broth in a medium saucepan, and bring it to a simmer while you get started on your risotto.

2.) Heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium heat (make sure it is enough to generously coat the bottom of the pan). Add the chopped onion and cook until softened and translucent, seasoning with a little salt. Tip in the rice and cook, stirring, until grains the grains are well coated with the olive oil and onion, about 2 minutes.

3.) Pour in the wine and cook, stirring, until it has all been absorbed. Add half of the crushed tomatoes to to the rice mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until the rice has absorbed the tomatoes. Add the rest of the tomatoes and again, wait until absorbed. Next, on to the broth: add a ladle of broth to the rice mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until the rice has absorbed all of the stock. Continue this way — adding in broth one ladle at a time, waiting for it to be absorbed by the rice — stirring continuously. Continue cooking the risotto until the rice is creamy and is no longer crunchy. You may not need all of the broth — see how you go.

4.) Remove the risotto from heat and stir in the mozzarella and basil. Season to taste with salt and some freshly ground black pepper. Divide onto four dishes and eat with gusto, garnishing with more basil if you wish.