Polpette alla cacciatora
Ever since baking this Torta caprese al cioccolato bianco, I haven’t quite been able to press pause on my Italian-recipe-shake-up-brainstorm. Reminiscent of the Ice Cream marathon of 2009 and the Great Waffle Marathon of 2016, my musings have led to all sorts of ideas that may offend Italians as I revisit their classic dishes (scusatemi in anticipo). If all goes well and I get the recipe right soon, you can expect a tiramisù al burro d’arachidi (aka a peanut butter tiramisù: the perfect fusion of USA and Italy) and before that, as in today: these polpette alla cacciatora (perhaps a bit less controversial than a potential peanut butter tiramisù).
The most popular recipe in 2023 were these polpette al vino bianco – lemon-y, tomato-sauceless meatballs – and I can’t say I was surprised. After all: who doesn’t love a good meatball?! They’re easy to make, can feed a crowd, are freezer-friendly, and are endlessly versatile. Always one to give the people what they want: here’s another meatball recipe to add to your repertoire, one that crosses the classic Italian pollo alla cacciatora – chicken with tomatoes and olives – with the beloved polpetta, or meatball.
I’ll set aside all modesty here and say that these polpette turned out quite exceptional. A clove of garlic, some freshly grated Parmesan, and a sprinkle of parsley make them extra flavorful; a little milk ensures that they stay juicy and fork-tender. Once rolled and ready to go, our polpette are pan-fried until golden, simmered with red wine, and then left to bubble in an olive-tomato sauce infused with a little rosemary. They’re cozy and comforting, capable of deftly counteracting the string of rainy days we’ve been experiencing in Rome— even the ones that catch you by surprise on a Tuesday afternoon and leave you with an inch of rain in your Converses (true story). They’re incredibly agreeable, too: these polpette are lovely served over polenta or mashed potatoes, and would probably get along famously in a toasted roll as a meatball sandwich (unabashedly American, I know). They’d also be nice simply served with crusty bread to mop up all the sauce. Personally: I found them to be particularly tasty alongside a heap of cacio e pepe roast potatoes (recipe nearly there and hopefully can be shared soon).
A couple of notes: You can roast the meatballs in the oven here if you prefer that method to pan-frying; just remember to drizzle them with a little olive oil so they crisp up nicely. I used beef for the meatballs, but you can also use veal, or a mix of beef, veal, and pork. If you find ground chicken that isn’t too lean, that might also work well, and keeps with the pollo alla cacciatora theme. I used about 3/4 of a teaspoon of salt in the meatball mix, but recommend you season them to your liking —add some salt, then cook a little bit of the meat mixture and then taste to see if it needs more. I used a very wide skillet — about 12.5 inches (32cm) across, and could fit everything comfortably. You can make this with a less wide skillet, but will probably have to cook the meatballs in batches. If you want saucier meatballs, you can up the crushed tomatoes to 700 grams (I have made them this way as well and appreciated having extra sauce to mop up).
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POLPETTE ALLA CACCIATORA
Makes 15-20 meatballs. Recipe adapted from www.giallozafferano.com.
Ingredients:
500 grams (a little more than 1 lb) ground beef (see notes)
40 grams (1.5 ounces, about 7 tablespoons) freshly grated Parmesan
3 eggs
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to tast e(see notes)
50 grams (1/4 cup) low-fat or whole milk
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
100 grams (1 cup) dried breadcrumbs
Ingredients for the sauce:
Olive oil
1 small yellow onion, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 stick celery, peeled and chopped
500 grams (2 cups) crushed tomatoes (passata if you’re in Italy)
1 sprig rosemary
120 mL (1/2 cup) red wine
90 grams (1/2 cup) black olives
Directions:
1.) Start with the meatballs! Mix together all ingredients for the polpette (beef to breadcrumbs) in large bowl. Mix well with your hands, until just combined.
2.) Form the mixture into 15 -20 meatballs — make them as big or as small asyou want — placing them on a baking sheet as you go. If you want to be really precise here, you can use a scale to make sure they are all the same and will cook evenly. Use care when forming the meatballs (don’t overmix or handle too much) to ensure that they don’t come out too tough.
3.) In a very wide, large skillet over medium-low heat — see notes — add a tablespoon or two of olive oil. Add the meatballs (you can do this in batches if your skillet isn’t big enough) and cook until they are browned on the outside, turning them as you go. Use a slotted spoon and move them to a paper towel lined plate. Pour off the excess fat from the skillet for your sauce and wipe it clean (just to avoid washing more dishes than necessary).
4.) On to the sauce! Cook the onion, carrot, celery, and rosemary in the same large, deep skillet in a little olive oil over medium heat. When the vegetables are soft and translucent, add the meatballs. Add the red wine into the skillet and let it cook off and fully evaporate, about 5 minutes.
5.) Pour in the tomatoes, and season with a little salt and pepper. Add the olives to the sauce and meatballs. Lower the heat to low, cover the skillet, and cook for 20-25 minutes, or until the sauce has reduced and thickened. Fish out the rosemary. Serve immediately with your side of choice sprinkled with a little parsley for color.
